Skip to main content

Cairo, Watered by the Nile and Cairene Tears

This Blogger loves the Egyptian people; they are kind, good natured, and gracious. Made worshipers of fellow humans by incestuous Pharaohs,conquered by Hittites, Nubians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, British, among others, they have survived into graciousness. With their history, graciousness should not be there, but it is, just like the Nile.

Cairo has an infrastructure built for maybe 3 to 4 million people; it must have been fabulous to live there in the late forties and early 1950s, just like Hollywood and Mexico City must have been in those golden years. Cairo had glamour then.

But alas, it is now like the now Mexico City, a great old lady, now too old for her burden.

Today, Cairo’s metro area has a population of about 20.8 million people; Cairo is the 16th most populous metro area in the world.

It is also the most populous metropolitan area in Africa, a lot of people for an infrastructure built to sustain 3 million souls.

One night, this Blogger and his girl, Judy, were assigned a Coptic Christian bodyguard, Hani; he could and did join us for a drink of whiskey. We sat around chatting, watching a wedding reception at the Sheraton Hotel. Hani was hilarious;he had just finished guarding a party of Mormons, and they had decided to convert him, so they had sent him NINE boxes of religious material from Bountiful, Utah. He asked me some questions about Mormons, which I could not answer, so we decided to go visit his uncle in Heliopolis, a cool Cairo neighborhood.


The Uncle was a most gracious man, and he asked Judy and this Blogger to stay to watch some Egyptian films made in Cairo in the late 1940s,when it seems Egypt had a thriving film industry. He had a gigantic collection of old Egyptian films, complete with a makeshift screening room, featuring an antique, no ancient 35mm projector. It was so Egyptian Sunset Blvd. Hani was assigned to change the reels at the appropriate times. Our host spoke wonderfully aristocratic English, from his youth in the Days of Empire.

The film was filmed in and around Cairo;out of nowhere, the gracious host starts crying like a baby, a real breakdown.

He began to mutter: " Oh Cairo, my Cairo, you were so beautiful then. you should have seen it then.”

Hani tried to console his inconsolable Uncle, amid the flickering black and white images mocking the living from the screen. All that was missing was Erich Von Stroheim, with monocle and maybe a fez.

This would be a tragic little vignette if it wasn’t for the fact that all this legendary Cairo beauty of our hosts’ youth was presided over by a fat and corrupt king( a descendant of the Albanian Muhammad Ali). Looking back at it now, the whole scene was cheap nostalgia, discounted from a .99 Cent store. Seriously, how can one summon up nostalgia for the good old times of fifty years ago, in a country that has been there for 5,000 years? Our host was lamenting fifty years past, in a country which has a past history of 5,000 years.

This Blogger made a point of visiting the Cairo Citadel, the site of the Massacre of the Mamelukes, by the original Muhammad Ali, the Albanian thug, mercenary, warlord, Mafioso, and eventual Sultan of Egypt.

Under the Sunni Abbasid Caliphate, young Christian Crimean, Georgian and Circassian boys were kidnapped from their homeland and made into slaves, the Mamelukes( from the Arab word meaning “owned.”). They were forcibly converted to Islam and trained in the martial arts.

The Mamelukes were the Islamic version of the Japanese Samurai class of warriors.

In 870,  a Mameluke seized control of Egypt.

The sons of Mamelukes did not automatically become Mamelukes, instead “they constantly replenish their numbers with new slave boys from the fierce tribes of central Asia and the Caucasus.”


The Mamelukes inflicted the first defeat ever on the Mongols of the Genghis Khan Dynasty; they also defeated a French Crusade.

The Ottoman Turks tamed them, but left them in power.

Napoleon defeated them before the Pyramids; but they remained in power.

Until  the Albanian  Muhammad Ali.

Muhammad Ali was not a Mameluke,  but a Muslim Albanian mercenary serving the Ottoman Empire; he wanted to found his own dynasty in Egypt, an Albanian Dynasty of Sultans.

He gathered a group of fierce and loyal Albanians gangsters to his banner, and invited the Mamelukes to a dinner/celebration at the Cairo Citadel.

There, his men ambushed the Mamelukes, killing them all save one.

One surviving Mameluke fought his way out, his stallion leaping over a wall,  and rode off into the desert No one knows what happened to him.

After the massacre, the Mamelukes went the way of the Knights Templar, ambushed into history. Both killed out to the last man.

Upon reflection, perhaps it is time the United States appointed an Albanian warlord to run its war against ISIS; for real victory over ISIS, means extermination to the last man, like it was with the Mamelukes and the Knights Templar.

The Cairo Citadel reminds us that it can be done.

This is what you should know about Egypt, the misplaced permanence of it. Go stand on the banks of the Nile, the Mother of Rivers; then turn around and face West, toward Libya, and just start walking. It is some of the most green,and lush and vibrant land you will ever see. It is so green. it is like Astroturf. You walk for maybe ten miles, a nice hike,through toppled temples, past wrecked Gods, but still green, a green carpet.



Then it ends, ENDS. In its place, directly in front of you, where there was lush green, is a mean, brown desert. It just begins, no gap, no ditch, no gulch, no epic divide, just lush green suddenly stopping and a hard brown desert beginning. It is as if God had laid a thousand mile strip of astroturf on the Mojave; it is a remarkable sight. The green does not even peter out, it just ends.  No one should weep for something which happened, on film, when you can walk ten miles and see a green and brown miracle.

There is nothing like the Nile, for the simple reason, IT SHOULD NOT BE THERE. It is the anomaly which humbles you.

Cairo
Massacre of the Mamelukes
The Last Mameluke escaping the Massacre

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Urination Of Nicole Kidman's Career

I went to see EYES WIDE SHUT in total awe of its Director, Stanley Kubrick, who had in his career Directed THE GREATEST Science Fiction/Cosmological film EVER- 2001, SPACE ODYSSEY, the BEST and MOST INSIGHTFUL film essay on American culture EVER- LOLITA, arguably the greatest war movie ever- PATHS OF GLORY, and one of the best film epics ever- SPARTACUS. Mr. Kubrick died SUDDENLY, before EYES WIDE SHUT was released. Everyone was so sad. Then I saw EYES WIDE SHUT, and understood exactly why Herr Director Kubrick had croaked so suddenly; he had willed himself to death before the release of the film, so that  he would not have to suffer the slings and shots against his declining genius. EYES WIDE SHUT is the WORST, laughably worst, porn film ever made, EVER. It starred that larger than life couple(at the time), Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman. The key scene in the film was Ms. Kidman peeing. I was spending over $60.00(including tickets,parking and snacks for me and my date ) to watch

The Crash of Flight 447: Fate, Moliere and Veronique Gaignard

In 1954 there was the film, THE HIGH AND THE MIGHTY about danger in the air; that was followed by the 1964 film, FATE IS THE HUNTER about a fatal airplane crash and the followup investigation; followed by the 1970 film, AIRPORT, about a bomber on a plane, starring every living star in Hollywood at the time; followed by  the sequels, AIRPORT 75, AIRPORT 77, AIRPORT 79- THE CONCORDE. All that melodramatic danger in the air was laughed to death by the films AIRPLANE in 1980, followed by AIRPLANE II in 1982. Everything in air flight had been covered, both the tragedy and the comedy  of air travel, until Air France Flight 447. Flight 447 was the Air France  Airbus Flight from Brazil to France, which,in 2009, crashed in the South Atlantic , killing all on board,228 passengers. Airbuses fly by wire, which means they fly by computers rather than the old mechanical ways.  Very up to date, except when something goes awry, then it seems it is very difficult to set right. In the wee hours

Roger Cohen's Russian Think Piece in NEW YORK TIMES Begs the Question: Was Gerry Maxey Right about Russia TEN YEARS AGO?

  This Blogger respects Russians; as Frederick the Great stated :” It takes two bullets to take a Russian soldier out; one to kill him and one to  stop him.” This Blogger   likes Russians; even though once, in Moscow, during the Soviet era, his incredibly attractive tour guide, aka KGB agent, told him and his brother   that they were in danger of being hit, fatally, by a Soviet car crossing a Moscow street. T his Blogger’s brother told her that he had ridden in a Soviet Car, the LADA; and that he could damn well survive any hit by that piece of junk. She laughed. That night, this Blogger’s brother slept in his room, under his bed, drunk. This Blogger admires the way Russians do business; when Soviet diplomats were kidnapped in Lebanon, the KGB paid the ransoms immediately, without complaint. Shortly thereafter, Beirut was flooded with Soviet agents and Soviet bribes; the kidnappers were identified. They were abducted, tortured and  castrated; their dead bodies strung from l